Los Cocodrillos de Carara

Monday and Tuesday of this week were a nice but hectic change of pace. Monday we went to the U of Costa Rica for a guest lecture on biofuels and then hit the crowded streets of downtown San Jose. We were conducting our third field experiment, this one on the public opinion and knowledge of climate change. Coming from New York City, I thought for sure it was going to be very difficult finding willing people to fill out our surveys. I can't imagine stopping a New Yorker, "hey, can you please take 5 minutes-" And they're gone before I can even finish my sentence. Thanks to better attitudes, a slower pace and a smoking habit, Costa Ricans made our homework a breeze.

The only ticos who told Maisie and me no were the ones who had already filled out the survey for a classmate, and even then they still patiently listened to our whole spiel in Spanish before declining. (Granted we were targeting males..) It was exciting to talk to the locals about climate change and answer their questions, and also at times frustrating - as my technical science talk is quite limited en espanol. After 10 surveys completed and a great lunch in the city, we headed back to Atenas for two more lectures, dinner, and some soccer with the locals.

Tuesday was an early morning - I must say it's never a good sign when you have to wear your headlamp to breakfast. Spirits were sleepy but high because we were off to Carara National Park and the Tarcoles River. The Tarcoles is the most polluted river in Costa Rica and Carara National Park is famous for it's birds and biodiversity. We saw scarlet macaws, crocodiles, herons of all colors, mangroves, crabs, iguanas, poisonous frogs and LOTS of trash.

After another long day we were all grateful for the evening off. Now it's back to business as midterms and our second research paper are all happening in the next 6 days. I can't wait for next Thursday when it's all over and we head to the cloud forest in Monteverde, but I also know that I have to enjoy each moment because it will be over before I know it! And just over three weeks in, I can already say that this is truly one of the best experiences of my life.

Saprissa!!!!! Ultra Morada!

Today a group of us chartered a mini bus into San Jose to catch the local professional team, Saprissa, play Herediano from Heredia. The teams are huge rivals and as expected, both teams came out in full force - including a massive fan base decked out in jerseys (us included). Yendry, our administator from the Center is a die hard Saprissa fan, so we joined the locals of San Jose and her as loud and obnoxious supporters of the purple monsters.

The game started out slow, almost as if each player was still warming up and just show boating their angelic touch on the ball. It was certainly a different style of soccer than in the states. So many light touches, small chips, baby passes, bent balls, one touch volleys - to say the least it was mesmerizing, even as they just kicked around. Then, towards the end of the first half, even though Saprissa was controlling the game, Herediano scored. It seemed to jolt both the Saprissa team and the fans awake, and the second half was a different game.

Dynamic and spirited, Saprissa kicked off the second half with passion, stemming right from the rattling and drumming purple stadium. Despite some cross bar attempts, it was not enough. Fouls became more frequent but luckily, the ref was definitely providing a home field advantage. (Good thing for his own health, Saprissa fans mean business). After a red card to a punch throwing Herediano player, it seemed victory was imminent for Saprissa playing a man up.

But Herediano responded quickly to add another tally to their lead, now making it 2-0. Fans in a riot, Saprissa knew they needed to turn the game around. And that's just what they did.

Never letting up, Saprissa kept the attack on, and just like that, one by one, the goals came. Each one more beautiful and perfect than the previous, a cross, a header, a line drive from outside the box - Herediano couldn't contain the purple monsters and their roaring fans. The passion in the stadium was like the fire that blows from the mascot's mouth, fueling the infuriated morada.

Final score read 3-2, and Saprissa team left satisfied and invigorated, another win under their belt. And we the fans also left feeling invigorated and motivated, myself with a biting desire to get back in the competition myself. Fall can't come soon enough - but for now I'll embrace every ounce of passionate and beautiful soccer I can here in Costa Rica and bring some of it back to New York!

Santa Rosa: 3 weeks..mas o menos

Well, where to start? So much has happened here, just as is the case for every day. It has ONLY been three weeks since I've been here, yet it has been ALREADY been three weeks since I've been here. Either way I can't believe it.

Wednesday a group of us began our outreach program for the semester. We are giving tours to elementary school kids in a local forest. We went out and got familiar with the forest and learned the script so we are familiar with it so we can give these kids tours in espanol. At one point during the hike through the Bosque Municipal, I turned down a path and at least 30+ butterflies flew up around us from the ground. It was surreal.

Thursday thru Saturday we went to Santa Rosa National Park where we visited our first tropical dry forest. There the days were scorching hot and the nights windy and cool. Our days were filled with lectures, hikes and meals. Our nights consisted of star gazing and astronomy, as well as night hikes searching for animals. We found scorpions, tarantulas, wolf spiders, nightwatcher birds, snakes, owls, and bats. We went on long hikes through the dry cacti and dead branches. Packed with lectures, we were all thankful for the bus rides and stops for ice cream. :)

Now, back at the center in Atenas, we celebrated two girls 21st birthday's tonight. Tomorrow, it's off to San Jose to watch the local professional soccer team, Saprissa, play. Then it's back to the books, midterms and presentations this week, as well as the padre's birthday!

Valentine-The Saint of our Surf

On our second official day off here in Costa Rica, a group of 11 of us decided to escape Atenas for the day and head to Jaco Beach for some surfing. Despite the tourism, it couldn't have been more relaxing. Part of this may have had to do with the comfort in the tourism - let's be honest, we were surrounded by North American's and Europeans. After all, who doesn't feel right at home amongst speedo's, burnt red shoulders and tacky American restaurants?

But in all serious, tuve lo mejor dia a la playa. We went surfing on some waves which to me, a beginner, seemed rather large. I managed to stand up, yes, but for a total of maybe 8 seconds. (Total meaning all of my attempts put together - roughly 30+.) With sand filling our suits and burns spreading over our shoulders we bounced back and forth between the beach and the waves.

Besides just the sun, surf, and delicious food - it was great to get away from school and have some time to ourselves. Now all I can think about is my plans for next weekend, and then the next weekend...and so on! But now it's time for homework. And I must say, it is slightly more uncomfortable with the crispy lobster looks we all are sporting.

But it is only fitting to note that this Valentine's Day we all turned a little pink.

Beach Camping at Manuel Antonio

Camping on the beach. Warm sand beneath our tents. Palms swaying in the wind. Waves rolling in, rhythmically lolling us to sleep. Sounds poetically perfect, I should think.

I thought wrong. More accurately I should describe the humidity, the rain, and the mosquitos.

We woke up and headed out to Manuel Antonio National Park early Thursday morning. After stopping at two different locations for lectures along the way, once at Herradura beach for a lecture on tourism, and then at an African Palm Plantation for a lecture on biofuels, we made it to Manuel Antonio by 11 am. Then it was time for lunch and an orientation hike. We were there to study the effects of tourism on the local environment and wildlife. And sure enough, right from the first hike, it was clear that Manuel Antonio was struggling to deal with the effects of being the smallest national park in Costa Rica, but the most visited. Monkeys were feet from us, unfazed by our presence and excessive camera snapping, or they growled at us and knocked branches down, their way of telling tourists to stop watching them eat! Hanging next to the "No alimentar a los monos" signs, a capuchin tightly clutches a cracker. Oh, the irony. We continued hiking along the trails, pushing past people far too often, and seeing way too much trash.

As soon as we reached the top of the cliff - it was no wonder this park is so crowded. Cool blue waves crashing into perfectly white beaches that were contrasted with dark rocks and green palms. My camera couldn't click fast enough. Even the pictures don't do the beauty justice. I guess I can understand the over-crowding. Who wouldn't want to see this!!

No one is allowed to stay overnight in the park, but since we are working with them to help improve their management, we are allowed to camp on these pristine beaches - but only after the last tourists have cleared out. Later on, sometime after dinner, when we were having a lecture in an outdoor classroom by the ranger station - the dreaded noises began to encroach all around us. Rain. Lots of rain.

Regretting the decision to skip the rain fly due to the extreme humidity and excessive sweating, we all had to race back to our tents to throw on the tarps. Little did they help as the rains picked up again in the middle of the night, pouring into our tents and seeping in from the sides. Not that any of us were dry beforehand (due to the non-stop sweat + bug spray + sand mix,) but still the extra wetness was in no way welcome. After a miserable night's sleep - we all woke up early (what's new?) to pack up all evidence of our camp before the first tourists arrived at 7. Already nice and sunny, the park was ready to greet those early morning tourists, as if it had never been so unforgiving on us just hours earlier.

Despite the long night, Friday was much better. After breakfast, all 36 of us roamed around the beach giving surveys in both Spanish and English. There were so many people from Canada and the Northeast, and also Europe. Then, it was beach time! No matter how much sunscreen I put on, it surely was all sweat off by the time I walked from the top of the beach to the ocean's edge. The Pacific was not warm - it was HOT. Steaming hot. Almost to the point that it was not refreshing. The only way to get just slightly cool for a second was to get in the water and then get out and stand in the shade while you are still wet, praying for a breeze.

Now, after many monkeys, agoutis, iguanas, sloths, crabs, lectures, surveys, card games, and yummy coconuts, we are back at our center in Atenas. All of us were ready for showers - but of course, as our luck should continue, a pipe is broken and we all were forced to "shower" in the pool. Perfecto.

Tomorrow we are helping run a volleyball tournament for the locals and then enjoying a nice afternoon and evening off. I need it! Sunday a group of us are going to Jaco to surf and lie on the beach - hopefully my slight burn will have faded to tan by then so I can add to it!

Adios for now!

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo y Manu

With our first field trip already behind us, the weeks are flying by. Thursday morning at 7 am we headed out to Braulio Carrillo National Park. It is about 50,000 Ha of protected rainforest, one of the largest strips of continuous preserved parks. This is important because it is so large that it contains altitude gradients that increase the biodiversity in the park. We took our first hike through the trees, stopping every 10 feet to discuss another plant or species. I must say, upon entrance into the forest I felt like I was entering a wall of green, but by the end I could already identify a handful of trees and plants and flowers.

From there we headed to Manu Center to set down our gear. There we had nice cabins but the bugs were must denser since it was in the rainforest. Thank god for mosquito nets! Too bad I forgot mine. In the afternoon we pulled back on our stylish rubber boots and set off for a tour of the sustainability project at a Palmito Plantation (Heart of Palm) nearby. Then it's back to the center just in time for our introduction to our Natural Resource Management class. Whew, what a long and sweaty day. We were all looking forward to a hot shower for once, but such as our luck should have it - a pipe broke and it was no water for us. Even a cold shower would have been better than nothing!

The next day it was early rising for those wanting to go bird watching and bird netting. We caught a few birds, humming birds were the cutest, and got to hold them, look closely at them and then release them. After breakfast we took morning hike through the forests surrounding Manu. Already I feel so much more knowledgeable than I did the day before. On this hike we observed termites, leaf-cutter ants, millipeeds, sloths, toucans, poisonous strawberry dart frogs, and numerous plants.

In the afternoon it was off to the Dole Banana Plantation for another tour in sustainability efforts. Our guide, Carlos, asked us how many Banana trees they have on their plantation, and the answer was - NONE! Apparently Banana's are not trees, they are herbs and are 90% water. My friend Maisie and I got to harvest a banana bunch, or so we thought - really Carlos was just setting us up for a humorous picture. I must say I am glad though, because I'm not sure how I felt about Maisie cutting above me with the machete. I'd like to live to experience at least a few more weeks of this awesome semester.

Returning to Manu we had our first Economics and the Environment class and then dinner. Afterwards we all jumped in the nearby pond to get in some sort of a shower, at the very least. Dinner is followed by some ping pong, pool, swimming, soccer, and of course - very competitive games of Egyptian Ratscrew.

Arriving back to our Center in Atenas Saturday we had our first night off. After dinner we all went into town and rolled into Don Yayo's - a restaurant/bar. We got a few comments about that "bunch of gringos" but besides that, people were friendly and it was fun to talk to the locals and practice some spanish. Ordering was a little difficult for us - I won't name names, but Maisie was eating nachos and ketchup, though she had asked countless times for salsa con tomates. ;)

Now Sunday, our first day off! Finally. After playing catch up on the internet I am going into town to run so errands and then it's homework time! I am so not in the mood for school, I still feel like I should just be on vacation right now. It will be a chore to make the transition today but I guess I don't really have a choice!

Hasta Luego!

Survivor Atenas

Well I am finally here! And I will say it is a dream come true. No really, it is. I've always wanted to be on Survivor and now I feel like I finally am. First of all, the living conditions are nice but somewhat rustic. The showers are freezing. The bugs are many. The nights are hot and the mornings are cold. Alliances are being formed, all we need now is Jeff Probst. En realidad, all of us 36 students live in one dorm together, 5 people to a room. Our days are long. Breakfast is at 7 am and is followed by classes, activities, lectures, field trips, community service, swim tests, and meals until 9 pm at night. Throw in the running that myself and about 6 others do before breakfast and you've got yourself an early morning.

But I can't complain because I love every tired minute of it. The stars are bright. The weather is beautiful. I can pick fruit off the trees at our center any time I want: oranges, bananas, or starfruit. Every bite of food I take here is 10x more flavorful than all the bites combined of US food. The people in the program are so cool-not a person I don't get along with. Tomorrow we leave for our first field trip tomorrow. Off to hike through a national park and then a rain forest on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica, and then a banana plantation tour.

The research projects look amazing - I'm hoping to get on one that researches tourism and it's effects on the socio-economic situation.

Tonight we did community outreach and played soccer with kids in Atenas. Their field was dirt with added garbage, sticks, and rocks. And they all were playing barefoot. All one v one's turned into a tornado of dust in which the ball would disappear. The lights were on but dim, so sight was tricky (especially with the added dust in your eye). Though it was the worst conditions I have ever played soccer in, it is one of the best experiences I've had on the pitch. It made me feel so grateful for the opportunities I have and the fields, boots, etc., but all for the love of the game.

Lastly, the most important thing to note about Costa Rica. Toilet paper DOES NOT go in the toilets. This has created mad problemos en the dorm toilets. Ew.