Top 10 things I will miss about Costa Rica

1. My Tico friends and family
2. Batidos (fresh fruit blended with milk..yumm)
3. Waterfalls and sunsets
4. Copious amounts of coffee always available
5. The Ketchup! (they make it with real sugar here, and much less salt, so delicious)
6. Granizados (snowcones but better with powdered milk in the middle and condensed milk on top, que rico!)
7. Hammocks
8. Wearing flip flops everyday
9. Horse Parades and Iguana crossing signs (instead of deer crossing)
10. Finally, I will miss the spanish and especially the Costa Rican slang like, Pura Vida mae, and the slow paced life style that comes along with it.

The Peanut Butter and Jelly Saga - Part II

Heading into our second week of travels we left Samara beach Monday to join Kurt´s family vacation yet again, this time in Rincon de La Vieja National Park. After graciously insisting Maisie and I sleep at their air conditioned (16 c) resort Sunday night, we were refreshed and ready to give the public bus system another shot. But, yet again, it was not with out hiccups.

After late buses and non existent but much needed bathrooms, Kurt and his brother, Peter, picked us up in Liberia. We quickly realized that contrary to our plans, there was no way maisie and I could have gotten around Rincon without a family or a car (or a LOT of cash to blow on taxis). Thankful for the kindness of the Davies family, we had a pleasant few days watching sunsets, eating great meals, hiking around craters, sitting in hot springs, and bathing ourselves in mud baths. When it was finally time to leave tears were shed as we shared a movie like goodbye from the back of our bus on the highway.

Off to Tamarindo (also known as TamaGRINGO), we welcomed the tourist development because it reminded us of home. It will be a nice transition destination as we head back to the great US of A Thursday. The first few days here were very relaxed and lazy days filled with beach time, runs, reading, naps, sunsets, movies, and, of course, PB and J´s. Now things have picked up as Kurt missed us (and we him) so much that he changed his flight from Saturday to Thursday. Now he is here with us and the good times are rolling. Today Edwin, my homestay brother, joins us for our last few days at the beach before we head back to San Jose early Wednesday morning.

Finally - a CR Vacation

School is officially over but for many of us, the adventure in Costa Rica continues. Finally, we have become those tourists that we studied and interacted with all semester, and I have to say, it's all it's cracked up to be, even on a budget. Our unfortunate mosquito cave rooms, PB and Jelly sandwiches, and the public transportation cannot overshadow the picturesque beaches, rythmic waves, and illuminating sunsets.

Maisie and I wasted no time getting to the beach. We took the 4 am shuttle from our school, stored our bags in San Jose, and hurried to the bus station in San Jose. But, just as for any first-time alone travelers, our plans did not go smoothly. We arrived at the station at 6:15, only to learn the bus was at 6am, not 7, and the next bus wasn't until 2:30 pm. Our hearty laughs were quickly followed by yawns as we picked a nice cafe to bum in for the day.

Montezuma was a cute little beach town with interesting restaurants and shops. Good thing for us, students on a budget, the beaches were beautiful and free. While we were there we hiked a waterfall, explored town , lounged on the beach and took a nice walk to visit a sea turtle hatchery that my friend, Hayley, volunteered at last fall.

Two nights a 3 PB and J's later, we were off to Playa Samara to meet up with our friend Kurt and his family. But, not before another hiccup. Turns out it is impossible to go north from Montezuma without a car of your own. Long story short, we had to drop some serious cash to take a private shuttle to Samara.

Instantly, the money was worth all the trouble. The beaches, the sunset, the waves - all out of a dream. We met up with Kurt and his family and joined them in surf lessons and beach meals. His parents even saved us from our mosquito cave hostel and let us stay in their resort with them. Maisie and I are both in awe of how welcoming his family has been to us, taking us to dinner and now taking us all the way to Rincon de la Vieja to stay with them, yet again, in their resort.

So we're off to enjoy these next few days of a "family" vacation, and then it's back to the beach for our student budget that may avoid the expenditures of a family vacation, but misses out on that group dynamic with parents, siblings and friends that is most certainly filled with laughter and good spirits.

Waterfalls, bonfires, soccer, horse parades - oh, and LOTS of writing

Budgeting my time correctly - the last seven days of Directed Research paper writing weren't so bad. Somehow, despite the long days staring at my computer screen and getting way too familiar with excel and statistics, I still managed so squeeze in some fun.

By day four I was finally done with my graphs and tables - so this called for celebration. A night time hike to the nearby waterfall was in order. The waterfall is huge and pours over some rocky dirt cliffs into a pristine pool. Hot from the hike - we wasted no time getting in the water, which quickly cooled us off. After spending time letting the water beat down on us from above, our chills got the best of us. Perfect timing - we swam to shore to be greeted by a roaring bonfire and smores. For those who know me well, they understand that I am currently describing my own personal heaven.

The next day was again full of writing and researching and lots of coffee. The evening however, brought about a refreshing and new experience. Before coming to Costa Rica, I had never seen, or even heard of, a horse parade. Turns out their a hoot here with the Ticos - they love them. Though I'm still not sure what the excitement is in a bunch of horses walking through the streets, pooping all over the place - I can appreciate the festivities that accompany them. Food, alcohol, cowboy hats, carnivals, dancing, music and more food. Makes for a great night - and the horse pies only add for some fresh obstacles on my morning run.

Sunday morning and my paper was mostly finished. Excellent for me because I was headed to the La Liga playoff game versus Puntarenas. La Liga is Saprissa's biggest rival, and seeing as I was first a Saprissa fan, I was not about to follow many of my classmates and switch teams. No I'd stick with my original team, but doesn't mean I couldn't go and enjoy an amazing game of soccer. Turns out La Liga has an incredible left back who I was mesmerized watching. Now I just wonder, can a fan have a favorite player who doesn't play for their favorite team? La Liga won 3-2, despite dominating completely.

Now our papers have been handed back to us and the final editing process is coming to a close. Final presentations and we're all done here at the School for Field Studies.

Research in Paradise

The past six days were spent in the field as we split into four groups for the Directed Research portion of the program. Since I chose Professor Achim's project on sustainable tourism I got to spend my time doing research in the most popular tourist destination in Costa Rica - Manuel Antonio National Park.

It made for a rough life the past week. Strolling along the beaches, my feet covered in sand thanks to those sneaky waves that swirled around my ankles. Talking with tourists and locals, my surveys practically filled themselves out. Hiking every trail within the park, I am now a pro at using my naked eye as a range finder. Walking in the morning and evenings, my paper complete with the lists of mammals we spotted from the transects. Yeah, life was difficult.

I had to constantly remind myself, amongst the breathtaking viewpoints, the trickling waterfalls, the cute squirrel monkeys, and the turquoise blue water, that I was, in fact, at "school".

All in all, the days flew by. I met some very interesting people - most from the US I can relate to in some way since I've lived and traveled on both coasts. I chatted with Ticos on the weekends and translated for park rangers. We held workshops for the guides and rangers that addressed their (passive aggressive) concerns within the park.

Even the "terrible" (Achim's quote, I think the Germans have much higher sanitary standards) cabinas that we stayed in or the excessive humidity and bug bites couldn't bring us down. Cockroaches in our stuff, mice terds on the beds, frogs in the rooms, ants on the walls, bathrooms that reeked, showers that dripped cold water - it was convenient that we were exhausted each night so we just passed out amongst it all tucked away under our mosquito nets .

The results from our mammal sighting competition are still being calculated (numbers are that high). But we can officially say that Peter won the bug bite contest, though Nell was a close second. And the pounds of baked goods that made the trip down the Pacific Coast from our kitchen in Atenas are all officially gone - having lasted us far longer than anticipated. Suddenly our field research is complete - and thus we are reunited with the other groups for a final two weeks at our center.

Let the graph analyzing and paper writing begin. But not before a trip or two to Yayo's.

“You can do it, just drop the bungee”

Just like that, we made our reservation. With little time to plan our second weekend away, we didn’t think through our decision. Conveniently, this also left no time for me to inform my parents of the jump I was scheduled to make Sunday morning.

Almost forgetting the purpose of our stay in San Jose Saturday night, we checked into our hostel, walked around the main street, bought ripped movies, ate dinner and listened to famous street performers. After relaxing on the rooftop of our hostel and enjoying the cool evening and city lights, we went to bed early, knowing we needed to be rested in order to achieve perfect form on our swan dives the following morning.

My day started with a jump, as I was startled in my bed by a strange man calling out “Peter?” and shining his lighter on my face. Despite this rude early morning awakening, we all somehow managed to sleep thru my alarm. Not to worry, our shuttle hadn’t left us and we arrived at the Old Colorado Bridge to test our fates around 9 am.

Dan jumped first. His flawless swan dive made it seem so easy. This was going to be cake. Why were we even nervous?

“I felt like I was going to die!”

Thanks, Dan. We’re all so excited to jump now.

No matter, Kurt took his tumble of faith second and finished with a beaming smile. It was my turn. I’d had enough time to think about it, now it was just time to do it. Without wasting any time, I walked to the edge of the platform, took one look down at the river canyon below and took one deep breath, dropped the bungee and leaped out as far out as I could.

Then I screamed. The realization hit, I just threw myself off a bridge!? What was I thinking?! Ohh, but how exhilarating it was. The thrilling screams turned to uncontrollable laughter. I was so high on adrenaline, I couldn’t control my giddiness. Suddenly it all just seemed so hilarious. Why do people, why did I, throw myself off a bridge, just for fun? And why was I so scared to do it? Suddenly problems and stresses of life seemed so trivial.

Things are never as big or important as we make them out to be in our own minds. Instead of worrying, a lo hecho pecho, things will work out the way they’re meant to. And for now, I just focus on loving every moment I’m living.

With no way to articulate this sensation and clarity to Maisie after I was right side up again, she was letting her nerves spin out of control. After many checks of her carabineers and skeptical looks at the worker, she inched her way onto the platform. A few more minutes of encouragement and she finally let go of the bungee and the countdown began. 5-4-3-2-1, sure enough, into the canyon she went, screaming just like I did.

My parents and friends asked me why I do these crazy things. I used to think I just liked the thrill, but now I realize there’s more to it. I do it for the combination of the anticipation before - followed by the hilarious realization after - that brings a sense of clarity to all aspects of my life.

I’m sorry mom, but I’d do it again.

SJF 2010 and Volcán Barú

The adventure began as soon as our pencils hit the desks. Finally, our last final was finished and break suddenly appeared in front of us. What we had been looking ahead to for so long was now. We were off to publicize our Save the Jaguars Foundation and summit the tallest peak in Panama, Vocán Barú. For SJF, that meant we rushed to a bus to San Jose and then took another bus, this one eight hours, all the way to Costa Rica's southern border.

We arrived (exhausted) at Paso Canoas at midnight and were annoyingly accompanied by an over friendly homeless man who acted as if he knew we were coming and just where we were going. He decided we were lost and needed his guidance thru the border town, and therefore owed him a tip. Seeing as we had our own guide, Jay, we saw his unwelcome help as a burden rather than a necessity. After a horrible nights sleep in the hole in the wall hostel we awoke early to walk across the border. After crossing we secured a private bus to Boquete and the joviality began.

Thursday was spent walking around the mountain town of Boquete and preparing our minds, bodies, and backpacks for the hike that was scheduled to begin at 11 pm that night. We ate big meals, napped and bought snacks for fuel. After power hours of hydration and pre-gaming water shots we were all hydrated and ready to hike. We arrived at the trail head at 11:30 and wasted no moonlight waiting around.

We were a big group and so naturally we separated into smaller groups as we completed the 5 or more hour hike thru the night. Thank god for the moonlight and headlamps, with out them lighting our way we all would have tripped up on the loose volcanic rocks that littered the trail the entire way. Despite the tragic trail conditions, the hike was worth it as soon as we got to the top. We arrived with plenty of time before sunset and awaited in the cold until the reds, oranges and yellows started to stream thru the clouds.

We were above it all. Blankets of clouds flowed like thick streams and water falls around the peak of our volcano. It was as if we were king of the rock, standing in the middle as a river flows all around us just as the sun begins to rise and bleed color. Between the clouds we got glimpses of the Pacific coast and of the valleys below. The cross marks the highest point in the entire country. There have been times when I have felt on top of the world, but now I can actually say I physically have been. Or at least, I've been on the top of Panamá.

Granada: Towers, volcanoes, outreach

Immediately we were spoiled. Air conditioning, hot showers, big beds, cable tv and food money. If all this was not enough, the colonial city of Granada greeted us with delicious restaurants, beautiful views and refreshing nightlife. One of my favorite times of day was again the sunset, but this time instead of watching it swimming on a dock, we were a top an old church tower looking over the city. Here is a brief synopsis of our stay in Granada.

Day one: bumpy roads and sweaty buses are no good for the sickTraveling, upset stomachs and sick people still quarantined, room assignments as we arrived at La Posada Del Sol, a night out in the empty streets of La Calzada.

Day two: A few hours is all you need in ManaguaOff to Managua to conduct more climate change surveys and have a tour of the National Palace and a lecture on tourism in Nicaragua. Dougie-fresh and I patrolled the mall asking shoppers to complete surveys and people were very willing to do so, despite full bags and rushed attitudes. Once back in Granada we went to Carita Feliz, a great center that educates and feeds poverty-stricken children of all ages, and performed a talent show with dinner. This is also the day that we discovered the best pizza ever – palmito. YUM.

Day three: The5,400 stairs of Volcán MombachoViews of craters, Granada, steam vents, wild orchids and cloud forests as we hiked around the top of the volcano up and down stair after stair. Whenever I felt sorry for myself and my calves, I thought of the workers who had to put this trail together!

Day four: Nueva Esperanza

Without question, this is the best outreach we have done this semester. We went to Nueva Esperanza, which is part of a group of nine public schools on the outskirts of Granada that teach children who’s families suffer from extreme poverty. We taught the 5^th graders English, worked construction and played soccer with the kids. We built them a drainage system for their water tank and a new garden with a wall wo that their water use can be more sustainable. It was hard and hot work, but worth every minute. After teaching English to Mabél, we were given a snack. She asked for watermelon, and as I ate my orange I watched as she took her untouched watermelon slice and passed it through the school fence to a little boy on the other side. Despite her own situation, she was still thinking of others. Suddenly, the sticky orange juice on my own fingers reeked of my selfishness.

Without a doubt, I will come back to Nueva Esperanza.

Day Five: Masaya artisan market and a taste of home

Our last day in Nicaragua we went to nearby Masaya. We spent hours in the artisan market, many buying cheap hammocks and personally I took care of all my souvenir shopping. Then it was up to Masaya Volcano to see the intense craters and breath in the sulfur. We hiked through some old lava caves where pre-Columbian ceremonies took place and walked around the craters where the sacrifices fell. We watched the sunset behind the cross above the crater and took excessive photographs while our professors turned up the salsa music from the bus and had their own dance party.

That night was our last in Granada, so we decided we should finally take advantage of our extended curfew and not go to bed by 10 like we had all the previous nights. True to our word, we enjoyed a Mexican dinner on La Calzada with a local street boy (whom Dan had befriended during the week), and then headed to Zoom Bar to watch some college basketball. My distracted eyes quickly strayed from the tv with basketball to the one playing the Sounders soccer game, completely ignoring the two gringo boys at the corner table. After about 5 minutes in the bar, I finally heard the calls “Kelly, Kellyyyyyy” and looked over. The world could not be smaller, as I turned to see Jon and Kyle, my sister’s boyfriend and close friend, who are both good friends of mine. So to say the least, for the first time in Granada, it was hard for me to keep to curfew because I wanted to stay out all night talking and catching up with my first personal connection to home in months.

Ironically, this week in Nicaragua was the best time I’ve had since studying abroad in Costa Rica. In Costa Rica’s defense, much of that was because of the awesome accommodations, amazing views and previously unheard of free time. But still, Nicaragua is definitely a country I will visit again.

Now, we must focus on finals, but then I’m off to Panama to hike Volcán Barú with the SJF crew for our spring break during Semana Santa!

Isla de Ometepe: Beautiful, for some

Our adventure to Nicaragua started on the largest freshwater island in the world, the Island of Ometepe. It is in the middle of Lake Nicaragua and is home to one of the world’s most perfectly conic volcanoes, Concepción, and a volcano boasting physical evidence of its destructive power, Maderas. While we were on Ometepe we hiked Maderas, toured coffee plantations and saw ancient petroglifs telling of eternity. With all of our newly given free time, our hectic lives seemed to peacefully slow down on Ometepe as we experienced the spiral of eternity for ourselves.

The hostel we stayed at here, Hacienda Merida, was nothing short of picture perfect beautiful. It was located right on the lake with a view of both volcanoes and many sunsets, it was also a prime location for swimming, kayaking, stargazing and banano coco batidos. While many of us were blessed enough to enjoy every moment of beauty that Ometepe had to offer, the majority of our group was not so lucky. After the ferry ride on day one, a virus attacked its first of many victims. We are a close bunch, living and traveling together, but also sharing much food and water. This is great most of the time, until the germs take off like dominoes.

In total, over 20 students came down with the virus, one professor, one administrator and our intern. It was like a game of Mafia, each morning we’d discuss who else had been “lost” in the night. I was lucky to be apart of the third that made it out virus free, though the fear for your health and concern for the others still had quite an effect. Finally, after the vomiting and nausea surpassed and the hospital trips and quarantine were no more, we were all united again - just in time for a long travel day north to Granada.

Sticky, Sunburned and Snorkeling

Friday began a much needed laid-back weekend. The center hosted a fiesta for our homestay families that had disco lights, salsa music and tasty food that rivaled any party I've ever been too. Even better was the company. Ana and Edwin, my mother and brother here in Atenas, came to the dinner, and they were carrying the largest basket of exotic tropical flowers I'd seen. Apparently my effort at Spanish and politeness, despite the different customs, had come across. Dinner was accompanied with a talent show in which I partook in a Stomp dance led by Meredith who is a proud (white) member of her college stomp team. Our final shouts of "pura vida!" were followed by Kurt, Pedro, Frodo (Peter), Colin (Culo) and Doug singing and dancing away their dignity, with much pleasure for the audience, to "I Want it That Way" by the Backstreet Boys. The night ended with some superb salsa dancing (thanks to our lesson the night before) under the disco lights. After most of the families had left SFS students took over the dance floor until we were told to stop and clean up the remnants of an amazing night.

As for the rest of the weekend, it had yet to begin. The early morning on Saturday greeted us with multiple bus rides, first into San Jose and then to Cahuita. We ended up spending more time than planned in San Jose because the first bus was sold out. No matter, we had a great breakfast and visited the only English bookstore in the city. The only downside was that my goal of eating ZERO beans on the weekend was foiled in t-1 hour.

Finally arriving in Cahuita, we were greeted by a small colorful town and a sticky film of sweat and humidity covering our skin. This was a moot point when we caught sight of the pristine beaches along the national park and the cool blue water. Surprisingly, it was much cooler than the water at Manuel Antonio, though still bath water warm. After checking into our hostel and visiting la playa negra, we set off to do what we had really come to do. Eat Caribbean food, and lots of it. After a delicious dinner of Patacones (which Maisie asked for "sin carne" even though they are fried plantains), pescado and Rice and Beans (yes, more beans) we settled in next door at Coco's. After some coconut drinks we were all feeling extremely tired after a long day's travel so we played some cards and went to bed. The first weekend we have free and don't have a midnight curfew, we go to bed at 10:30 - the irony kills me.

Well rested for a full day in the water, we went snorkeling with King at 9. He took us out in his little boat and gave us gear and showed us where the good fish and corals were. We were in Cahuita National Park waters just a ways off the shore of the point. For me, the snorkeling was amazing. For some Turks and Caicos alums (coughMaisiecough) it was nothing new. I however, was fasincated by the many different types of neon and colorful fish, the equally impressive coral and the sea urchins. One of my favorite things about this snorkeling, besides the freedom and the warm water, was the massive schools of fish that you could dive down and swim between. This must be similar to what Cahuitan kids do for fun in place of running and chasing down flocks of geese at the park like I used to (still) do.

After our snorkeling adventure and some bathing in conch shells, we ate lunch at a crepe place. I must say I have never had sadía (watermelon) in a crepe before and though it was good, it had nothing on Artopolis. We walked through the national park for a while, attempting to burn off the lunch so we could get in our second lunch before we had to load up the bus. After being frightened by the howler monkeys, we enjoyed another dose of Caribbean food and then headed back to the dry side of the country with our full bellies and salty and sunburned skin. Needless to say, once we arrived back at the center and joined our compañeros, we were certainly no longer the gringo sunburned anomaly.

Homestay, mae!

This weekend we all had our homestays with various families in Atenas. I lucked out and got to stay with a good friend of ours we'd seen a time or two down at Don Yayo's, Edwin. Expecting some kind of culture shock, it was different, sure, but in no way shocking.

It was practical. It was relaxing. It made sense.

Time was passed peacefully en el corredor (the porch), chatting with passerby's, 90% of whom were cousins. Life here is lived simply, but that is all that is needed for happiness. The afternoon was filled with lunch and then family time. Nieces, nephews, sisters and brothers filled the tiny green house. They were all very warm and accepting of me, letting the strange gringa muchacha hold the 10 day old Kimbley who was at Grandma's house for the first time. It was the youngest baby I've ever held, and with the most cameras on me in the process.

The evening included a trip to the horse parade, in which there is a rodeo, bar, dance floor, games and food. All of this is centered around the "parade" which entails a walk or march of los caballos por la calle. Horeses trot through the streets, cars still weaving through them and then back again, most of their owners drunk on their backs. All in all, great for people watching, seeing friends, and passing the time.

The night was flashy, full of neon lights and loud music, the discoteque in San Ramon called our names. We met up with Ronulfo and Allison and danced the night away. The best part about this discoteque? Soccer was on every tv, both games, Saprissa and La Liga, back to back. Costa Ricans know what's important.

Sunday included a nice sleep in after a long night. The morning was filled with spanglish and soccer with the neighbors. Then at 12:30 we headed to San Jose with some friends to catch a movie. The bus takes an hour but costs $1 each way. New York subways should take note. With no English Alice in Wonderland, we tried a different movie, "desde mi cielo" despite not knowing what it was about. It ended up being "The Lovely Bones" and it was a harsh lesson in language barriers, to say the least.

Returning to Edwin's house, I gave my parting gifts from home (Seattle Sounders gear) to his family. His mother said goodbye and gave me a long and warm hug, as if I was welcome any time, for the rest of my life.

Despite the heavy movie, the weekend ended with me comforted, knowing I had made a friend for life here in Costa Rica, and a family I can always come back to.

Continentally Divided in Monteverde

After a long week of midterms and research papers, it was a welcomed but silent four hour bus ride to the cloud forest of Monteverde. Excited for the overnight trip along the continental divide and relieved that the heavy workload was over (at least for a few days), we chugged our way up the mountain. The fascination with the continental divide was prominent as we witnessed the beautiful but dry Pacific side of the divide and then the wet and siempreverde Caribbean side. Once finally to the top where the cloud forest reserve was located, we set off in our three hiking groups.

Many plant, insect, flower, tree and climate facts later, we made it to the lookout along sendero de la ventana. It is called the window trail because it follows the ridge along the mountain top so you can see both directions, including the ocean and lake Arenal. However, being a cloud forest, we were up in the clouds with no view, the wet and wind welcomed after a hot week in Atenas. After consuming our much needed emergency sandwiches and chiky cookies, we journeyed back to the reserve, crossing over a sturdy but wobbly bridge above dense forest.

That night we were graced with a pizza dinner at a local restaurant and then the evening off to explore Monteverde and Santa Elena. After a tough week, about half of us took advantage of the opportunity, myself included. Time is flying here in Costa Rica, and so we have to take advantage of every moment to have some fun!

The next day it was an early morning (as always) and we were off towards lake Arenal and Tilaran to see the molinos. The wind turbines were owned by a private company who gave us a tour of the turbines as well as the control room. Costa Rica uses about 85% renewable energy, and this percentage is continuing to grow. The wind was whipping up there, but instead of hidding from the cold and wet, for some reason the wind was like a drug. Cameras out, each one of us, professors included, ran and jumped against the wind, as if testing the strength of each gust.

A long bus ride to the center put us back just in time for a briefing on our homestays that would take place the next two days. All of us were headed to different homes, every experience unique but each one full of culture.

Los Cocodrillos de Carara

Monday and Tuesday of this week were a nice but hectic change of pace. Monday we went to the U of Costa Rica for a guest lecture on biofuels and then hit the crowded streets of downtown San Jose. We were conducting our third field experiment, this one on the public opinion and knowledge of climate change. Coming from New York City, I thought for sure it was going to be very difficult finding willing people to fill out our surveys. I can't imagine stopping a New Yorker, "hey, can you please take 5 minutes-" And they're gone before I can even finish my sentence. Thanks to better attitudes, a slower pace and a smoking habit, Costa Ricans made our homework a breeze.

The only ticos who told Maisie and me no were the ones who had already filled out the survey for a classmate, and even then they still patiently listened to our whole spiel in Spanish before declining. (Granted we were targeting males..) It was exciting to talk to the locals about climate change and answer their questions, and also at times frustrating - as my technical science talk is quite limited en espanol. After 10 surveys completed and a great lunch in the city, we headed back to Atenas for two more lectures, dinner, and some soccer with the locals.

Tuesday was an early morning - I must say it's never a good sign when you have to wear your headlamp to breakfast. Spirits were sleepy but high because we were off to Carara National Park and the Tarcoles River. The Tarcoles is the most polluted river in Costa Rica and Carara National Park is famous for it's birds and biodiversity. We saw scarlet macaws, crocodiles, herons of all colors, mangroves, crabs, iguanas, poisonous frogs and LOTS of trash.

After another long day we were all grateful for the evening off. Now it's back to business as midterms and our second research paper are all happening in the next 6 days. I can't wait for next Thursday when it's all over and we head to the cloud forest in Monteverde, but I also know that I have to enjoy each moment because it will be over before I know it! And just over three weeks in, I can already say that this is truly one of the best experiences of my life.

Saprissa!!!!! Ultra Morada!

Today a group of us chartered a mini bus into San Jose to catch the local professional team, Saprissa, play Herediano from Heredia. The teams are huge rivals and as expected, both teams came out in full force - including a massive fan base decked out in jerseys (us included). Yendry, our administator from the Center is a die hard Saprissa fan, so we joined the locals of San Jose and her as loud and obnoxious supporters of the purple monsters.

The game started out slow, almost as if each player was still warming up and just show boating their angelic touch on the ball. It was certainly a different style of soccer than in the states. So many light touches, small chips, baby passes, bent balls, one touch volleys - to say the least it was mesmerizing, even as they just kicked around. Then, towards the end of the first half, even though Saprissa was controlling the game, Herediano scored. It seemed to jolt both the Saprissa team and the fans awake, and the second half was a different game.

Dynamic and spirited, Saprissa kicked off the second half with passion, stemming right from the rattling and drumming purple stadium. Despite some cross bar attempts, it was not enough. Fouls became more frequent but luckily, the ref was definitely providing a home field advantage. (Good thing for his own health, Saprissa fans mean business). After a red card to a punch throwing Herediano player, it seemed victory was imminent for Saprissa playing a man up.

But Herediano responded quickly to add another tally to their lead, now making it 2-0. Fans in a riot, Saprissa knew they needed to turn the game around. And that's just what they did.

Never letting up, Saprissa kept the attack on, and just like that, one by one, the goals came. Each one more beautiful and perfect than the previous, a cross, a header, a line drive from outside the box - Herediano couldn't contain the purple monsters and their roaring fans. The passion in the stadium was like the fire that blows from the mascot's mouth, fueling the infuriated morada.

Final score read 3-2, and Saprissa team left satisfied and invigorated, another win under their belt. And we the fans also left feeling invigorated and motivated, myself with a biting desire to get back in the competition myself. Fall can't come soon enough - but for now I'll embrace every ounce of passionate and beautiful soccer I can here in Costa Rica and bring some of it back to New York!

Santa Rosa: 3 weeks..mas o menos

Well, where to start? So much has happened here, just as is the case for every day. It has ONLY been three weeks since I've been here, yet it has been ALREADY been three weeks since I've been here. Either way I can't believe it.

Wednesday a group of us began our outreach program for the semester. We are giving tours to elementary school kids in a local forest. We went out and got familiar with the forest and learned the script so we are familiar with it so we can give these kids tours in espanol. At one point during the hike through the Bosque Municipal, I turned down a path and at least 30+ butterflies flew up around us from the ground. It was surreal.

Thursday thru Saturday we went to Santa Rosa National Park where we visited our first tropical dry forest. There the days were scorching hot and the nights windy and cool. Our days were filled with lectures, hikes and meals. Our nights consisted of star gazing and astronomy, as well as night hikes searching for animals. We found scorpions, tarantulas, wolf spiders, nightwatcher birds, snakes, owls, and bats. We went on long hikes through the dry cacti and dead branches. Packed with lectures, we were all thankful for the bus rides and stops for ice cream. :)

Now, back at the center in Atenas, we celebrated two girls 21st birthday's tonight. Tomorrow, it's off to San Jose to watch the local professional soccer team, Saprissa, play. Then it's back to the books, midterms and presentations this week, as well as the padre's birthday!

Valentine-The Saint of our Surf

On our second official day off here in Costa Rica, a group of 11 of us decided to escape Atenas for the day and head to Jaco Beach for some surfing. Despite the tourism, it couldn't have been more relaxing. Part of this may have had to do with the comfort in the tourism - let's be honest, we were surrounded by North American's and Europeans. After all, who doesn't feel right at home amongst speedo's, burnt red shoulders and tacky American restaurants?

But in all serious, tuve lo mejor dia a la playa. We went surfing on some waves which to me, a beginner, seemed rather large. I managed to stand up, yes, but for a total of maybe 8 seconds. (Total meaning all of my attempts put together - roughly 30+.) With sand filling our suits and burns spreading over our shoulders we bounced back and forth between the beach and the waves.

Besides just the sun, surf, and delicious food - it was great to get away from school and have some time to ourselves. Now all I can think about is my plans for next weekend, and then the next weekend...and so on! But now it's time for homework. And I must say, it is slightly more uncomfortable with the crispy lobster looks we all are sporting.

But it is only fitting to note that this Valentine's Day we all turned a little pink.

Beach Camping at Manuel Antonio

Camping on the beach. Warm sand beneath our tents. Palms swaying in the wind. Waves rolling in, rhythmically lolling us to sleep. Sounds poetically perfect, I should think.

I thought wrong. More accurately I should describe the humidity, the rain, and the mosquitos.

We woke up and headed out to Manuel Antonio National Park early Thursday morning. After stopping at two different locations for lectures along the way, once at Herradura beach for a lecture on tourism, and then at an African Palm Plantation for a lecture on biofuels, we made it to Manuel Antonio by 11 am. Then it was time for lunch and an orientation hike. We were there to study the effects of tourism on the local environment and wildlife. And sure enough, right from the first hike, it was clear that Manuel Antonio was struggling to deal with the effects of being the smallest national park in Costa Rica, but the most visited. Monkeys were feet from us, unfazed by our presence and excessive camera snapping, or they growled at us and knocked branches down, their way of telling tourists to stop watching them eat! Hanging next to the "No alimentar a los monos" signs, a capuchin tightly clutches a cracker. Oh, the irony. We continued hiking along the trails, pushing past people far too often, and seeing way too much trash.

As soon as we reached the top of the cliff - it was no wonder this park is so crowded. Cool blue waves crashing into perfectly white beaches that were contrasted with dark rocks and green palms. My camera couldn't click fast enough. Even the pictures don't do the beauty justice. I guess I can understand the over-crowding. Who wouldn't want to see this!!

No one is allowed to stay overnight in the park, but since we are working with them to help improve their management, we are allowed to camp on these pristine beaches - but only after the last tourists have cleared out. Later on, sometime after dinner, when we were having a lecture in an outdoor classroom by the ranger station - the dreaded noises began to encroach all around us. Rain. Lots of rain.

Regretting the decision to skip the rain fly due to the extreme humidity and excessive sweating, we all had to race back to our tents to throw on the tarps. Little did they help as the rains picked up again in the middle of the night, pouring into our tents and seeping in from the sides. Not that any of us were dry beforehand (due to the non-stop sweat + bug spray + sand mix,) but still the extra wetness was in no way welcome. After a miserable night's sleep - we all woke up early (what's new?) to pack up all evidence of our camp before the first tourists arrived at 7. Already nice and sunny, the park was ready to greet those early morning tourists, as if it had never been so unforgiving on us just hours earlier.

Despite the long night, Friday was much better. After breakfast, all 36 of us roamed around the beach giving surveys in both Spanish and English. There were so many people from Canada and the Northeast, and also Europe. Then, it was beach time! No matter how much sunscreen I put on, it surely was all sweat off by the time I walked from the top of the beach to the ocean's edge. The Pacific was not warm - it was HOT. Steaming hot. Almost to the point that it was not refreshing. The only way to get just slightly cool for a second was to get in the water and then get out and stand in the shade while you are still wet, praying for a breeze.

Now, after many monkeys, agoutis, iguanas, sloths, crabs, lectures, surveys, card games, and yummy coconuts, we are back at our center in Atenas. All of us were ready for showers - but of course, as our luck should continue, a pipe is broken and we all were forced to "shower" in the pool. Perfecto.

Tomorrow we are helping run a volleyball tournament for the locals and then enjoying a nice afternoon and evening off. I need it! Sunday a group of us are going to Jaco to surf and lie on the beach - hopefully my slight burn will have faded to tan by then so I can add to it!

Adios for now!

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo y Manu

With our first field trip already behind us, the weeks are flying by. Thursday morning at 7 am we headed out to Braulio Carrillo National Park. It is about 50,000 Ha of protected rainforest, one of the largest strips of continuous preserved parks. This is important because it is so large that it contains altitude gradients that increase the biodiversity in the park. We took our first hike through the trees, stopping every 10 feet to discuss another plant or species. I must say, upon entrance into the forest I felt like I was entering a wall of green, but by the end I could already identify a handful of trees and plants and flowers.

From there we headed to Manu Center to set down our gear. There we had nice cabins but the bugs were must denser since it was in the rainforest. Thank god for mosquito nets! Too bad I forgot mine. In the afternoon we pulled back on our stylish rubber boots and set off for a tour of the sustainability project at a Palmito Plantation (Heart of Palm) nearby. Then it's back to the center just in time for our introduction to our Natural Resource Management class. Whew, what a long and sweaty day. We were all looking forward to a hot shower for once, but such as our luck should have it - a pipe broke and it was no water for us. Even a cold shower would have been better than nothing!

The next day it was early rising for those wanting to go bird watching and bird netting. We caught a few birds, humming birds were the cutest, and got to hold them, look closely at them and then release them. After breakfast we took morning hike through the forests surrounding Manu. Already I feel so much more knowledgeable than I did the day before. On this hike we observed termites, leaf-cutter ants, millipeeds, sloths, toucans, poisonous strawberry dart frogs, and numerous plants.

In the afternoon it was off to the Dole Banana Plantation for another tour in sustainability efforts. Our guide, Carlos, asked us how many Banana trees they have on their plantation, and the answer was - NONE! Apparently Banana's are not trees, they are herbs and are 90% water. My friend Maisie and I got to harvest a banana bunch, or so we thought - really Carlos was just setting us up for a humorous picture. I must say I am glad though, because I'm not sure how I felt about Maisie cutting above me with the machete. I'd like to live to experience at least a few more weeks of this awesome semester.

Returning to Manu we had our first Economics and the Environment class and then dinner. Afterwards we all jumped in the nearby pond to get in some sort of a shower, at the very least. Dinner is followed by some ping pong, pool, swimming, soccer, and of course - very competitive games of Egyptian Ratscrew.

Arriving back to our Center in Atenas Saturday we had our first night off. After dinner we all went into town and rolled into Don Yayo's - a restaurant/bar. We got a few comments about that "bunch of gringos" but besides that, people were friendly and it was fun to talk to the locals and practice some spanish. Ordering was a little difficult for us - I won't name names, but Maisie was eating nachos and ketchup, though she had asked countless times for salsa con tomates. ;)

Now Sunday, our first day off! Finally. After playing catch up on the internet I am going into town to run so errands and then it's homework time! I am so not in the mood for school, I still feel like I should just be on vacation right now. It will be a chore to make the transition today but I guess I don't really have a choice!

Hasta Luego!

Survivor Atenas

Well I am finally here! And I will say it is a dream come true. No really, it is. I've always wanted to be on Survivor and now I feel like I finally am. First of all, the living conditions are nice but somewhat rustic. The showers are freezing. The bugs are many. The nights are hot and the mornings are cold. Alliances are being formed, all we need now is Jeff Probst. En realidad, all of us 36 students live in one dorm together, 5 people to a room. Our days are long. Breakfast is at 7 am and is followed by classes, activities, lectures, field trips, community service, swim tests, and meals until 9 pm at night. Throw in the running that myself and about 6 others do before breakfast and you've got yourself an early morning.

But I can't complain because I love every tired minute of it. The stars are bright. The weather is beautiful. I can pick fruit off the trees at our center any time I want: oranges, bananas, or starfruit. Every bite of food I take here is 10x more flavorful than all the bites combined of US food. The people in the program are so cool-not a person I don't get along with. Tomorrow we leave for our first field trip tomorrow. Off to hike through a national park and then a rain forest on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica, and then a banana plantation tour.

The research projects look amazing - I'm hoping to get on one that researches tourism and it's effects on the socio-economic situation.

Tonight we did community outreach and played soccer with kids in Atenas. Their field was dirt with added garbage, sticks, and rocks. And they all were playing barefoot. All one v one's turned into a tornado of dust in which the ball would disappear. The lights were on but dim, so sight was tricky (especially with the added dust in your eye). Though it was the worst conditions I have ever played soccer in, it is one of the best experiences I've had on the pitch. It made me feel so grateful for the opportunities I have and the fields, boots, etc., but all for the love of the game.

Lastly, the most important thing to note about Costa Rica. Toilet paper DOES NOT go in the toilets. This has created mad problemos en the dorm toilets. Ew.

"Let it change you"

As the days count down to my departure for Costa Rica, the excitement and anticipation is getting crowded out by anxiety and nerves. I've been told so much information about this place I'm going, this sustainable center in the Costa Rican Rainforest, and yet, I haven't a clue what to expect.

The topic of all my conversations, be it with family, friends or strangers, is this trip - the coming chapter of my life. My future plans have become right now. There is no second guessing. There is no uncertainty of my destination.

But with this certainty comes a jungle full of unknowns - new people, various climates, different cultures, innovative research. With so many changes in my surroundings, it is most surely going to change me. Before, this thought was frightening. But now, after the numerous well wishes, tales of the natural beauty and the happy people, and of the rewarding experiences of study abroad, I find myself nothing but excited for the change.

Yes I will come back with some obvious changes. For one, I will be tan (this is new for me). Also, I will be far better at speaking Spanish. I'll have made some new friends, had some memorable experiences, lived some unforgettable stories, and learned a great deal.

But the most important changes, the most lasting ones, are not the superficial or the certain ones. It is those changes that I let affect who I am and how I see the world. The changes that will alter the way I live my life. Yesterday, I received the best advice I have gotten in preparation for my travels. A past soccer coach and a good friend of mine left me with just four simple words that I will carry with me every step during the next four months.

"Let it change you."

And I will - knowing that every change will be for the better.

REI: Ridiculously Excessive Inventions

Despite the troubled economy, REI has nothing to fear, for the Hostetler family is here.

Today we made our first of a series of trips to REI* for things we "need". Even Dad joins these family shopping trips (little does he know that our next stop is the mall..) because he can't get enough of those useless camping gadgets and the newest energy powders.

Unlike the rest of my family, I consider myself immune to the temptations of excessive camp gear. This is partly due to my practicality, but mostly due to my fashion sense, or even more generally - my fashion awareness. There is a fine line between mosquito-repellent, quick drying, button-up, plaid shirts and the fashionable long plaid blouses with a cute tie around the middle. This is a line that many outdoors-men, especially my family, ignore. Let me explain.

I tried to keep an open mind. I headed straight for the shoe section - my most practical need was a pair of hiking boots. It's slim pickings, but I manage to find the least rough boots on display. My mom asks if they are comfortable. I shrug. Who cares, they're the best looking.

Moving on, I peruse the entire store in search of some long sleeve shirts. My packing list says they must be insect resistant, rain resistant, and temperature resistant. It might as well just read "fashion resistant." Before I thought camping was a cheaper vacation, now I glance over these price tags. So much for after Christmas sales. I take a deep breath and begin to flip through the clearance rack. With (a little too much) help from my Mom, I somehow accumulate a rather large pile of prospective shirts and pants*.

In the dressing room I give each garment a fair chance. Well, except those MEN'S shorts that my mom threw over the door, claiming they were "very practical for the jungle". Those stayed on the hanger, though they should have stayed on the rack. To make a long story short, I came out with two items out of the 20+ I tried on. I was not fully satisfied with these items, but I knew I needed to purchase something to make it out of the store before closing time.

My swift shopping proved effective when I barely evaded a purchase of gators, only possible with the unknowing help of the saleswoman. If you don't know, gators are a thick gortex material that strap under your shoe and tighten with a pinch cord just below your knee. They are worn to keep snow out of your boots, and for some reason my Mom* thought they would keep the poisonous snakes from biting my ankles during my many jungle hikes and field studies to be had in Costa Rica. Thankfully, the saleswoman piped in and told us that snakes could probably bite through this material, anyhow. Rather than be caught dead in those gators, I said I'd rather suffer numerous (potentially deadly) snake bites.

Moral of the shopping trip - fashion still exists even in the jungles of Costa Rica. Even though it is to a much lesser degree than that experienced in New York City, it exists. Even though there are 3x more girls in the program I'm headed to than guys, it exists. Even though the necessity of hiking gear limits my options, decency exists. And even though the economy is receding, REI has nothing to worry about because my family (and some others) find their expensive and excessive recreation equipment necessary for our inexpensive and natural outdoor pastime.

*For those of you who don't know, REI is a massive outdoor equipment store that was founded in Seattle (of course.) It has overpriced equipment for any outdoor sport or activity you could imagine. Just like an iphone has an app for everything, REI has a gadget for everything outdoors.

*Please note, these are not just any pants. These are the totally hip and fashionable pants that zip off into shorts. Multi-functional, multi-fashionable? Oh, yes.

*Last note. I love my Mom. I give her and her fashion sense a good knocking in this post, but that is only because I know that outside the mystical walls of REI, she has perfectly acceptable fashion.